Thursday, November 8, 2007

City girl again






After two weeks in Casaca, I returned to Xela (Quetzaltenango) today. We are amidst a valley ringed by mountains and a volcano (Santa Maria), but my hosts say this is not one of the active ones...those two are near Antigua (Picaya) and Guatemala City (Feugo). At 2300 metres it often rains however today we are blessed with sun before the clear night of chilly cold and endless stars...actually I don´t know if we will be able to see the stars since this city numbers about 800,000 and has much more electricity than the village. Last night in Casaca, the stars created such a mantle, I understood the arching space above the earth. One feels very insignificant and very lucky.
Now that I am back amidst familiar creature comforts, perhaps I will detail some of the daily routines in the village. With AFOPADI, I was treated to a room with a cement floor. Also, a composting outhouse, solar electricity and an ecolfilter that made drinkable water. About 3/4s of the inhabitants now have these compostings latrines. The impact on health is profound plus their use recycles human waste into organic compost. As I´ve mentioned, land is the big factor here. In most areas people do not own enough to grow enough crops to survive. Also, much of the land has been severely degraded by chemical fertilizers over the past decades. On Tuesday I attended a workshop about silos up in the village of Papal. The inhabitants there are finally wanting to purchase silos through the project (at an affordable price...this is extremely important since the campesinos do not generally value gifts as they have not attained them by working). Always they lived with their harvest...and the rats and the rat feces in the corn. Only recently have they understood the connection to better health and longer retention of their crops. There are many things to learn about proper maintenance of silos in order for them to function well...I am reminded of garden design at home and how much depends on quality maintenance. With the silos you have to elevate them for good aircirculation, make sure the points of entry and departure are properly sealed, take care not to store items on or near the silo (especially chemicals), and make sure you clean the silo in between uses by turning it on its side, entering and washing out the silo with water. There are two sizes, one is 30 and the other 18 but I can´t exactly translate the measurement. The larger one is about 6' tall and 3' wide. Also, before filling the silo with corn, you must apply the correct number of pills and wait at least 3 days. These pills kill any insects or eggs that might be inside. Otherwise, your corn harvest turns to dust. Maize is the universe for the Maya. Not only do most subsist on tortillas or tamales, but corn figures in their understanding of the cosmos, of the origins of man and of our purpose here on earth. Seeing the stars last night, I understood why the Maya were pioneers in astronomy and mathematics (they invented the concept of zero). And when you meditate on the stars, this comprehension of a larger whole forces you to reflect on your place, your purpose, your connection with eternal cycles. Forgive the waxing poetic: the sun is just now setting perfectly between the crest of two shadowed mountain peaks. Illuminating their silhouette are pastel orange rays that lighten the high clouds and darken those closer to earth. And on earth tonight, I will not need shoes and flashlight and fortitude against insects if I drink a cup of tea before bed.

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